Fish bait

At my local farmers market, one vendor sells (delicious) raw-milk cheese aged <60 days under the name "fish bait." It's a winking thing; she's not actually fooling anybody. But the raw-milk thing is quite a lively topic among food types, and the laws vary considerably by state.

Last month's Harpers includes a good reported piece that deals with the topic thoughtfully and fairly. I was especially interested to read about why pasteurization of milk came about in the first place.