More sort-of-good news from Chipotle

The burrito chain is pledging to use local sources for at least 25 percent of one ingredient in each of its locations. As good a hook as any for bringing up the same old question: Should we be glad?

It's a small menu, so let's be generous and say that 25 percent of one ingredient means 2-3 percent of total food purchases. (A more realistic estimate if it's chicken or cheese or tomatoes than if it's, say, jalapenos or cilantro--and which option do you suppose would cost the company less in exchange for the same amount of good PR?) Even if it IS that high, is this a reason to choose Chipotle over a restaurant that's locally owned and operated, that's attentive to the cultural and social tastes and needs of its particular community, that doesn't mask obscene calorie and sodium counts under rhetoric of natural and healthy food, that doesn't contribute to the homogenization and gentrification of neighborhoods? Or, for those of us who can afford it, over one that makes a more serious local-food effort and passes some of the related costs on to the customer?

On the other hand, maybe this a good reason to choose Chipotle over Panera or whatever when faced with no other options. Of course, it's also a reason to make the same choice when in fact there ARE other options, but they're less convenient, comfortable, predictable, reliable, whatever. In other words, it's a savvy move that appeals to people who care about food issues but are also drawn to fast-food chains for the same reasons people always have been. It's a guilt salve--a valuable service that we reward with our dollars.

On the third hand, while I'm far fonder of traditional Mexican food than of Mission-style burritos, Chipotle does do a pretty good job with the latter--they're tastier than anything at 95 percent of Chicago's gazillion taquerias or at any of DC's three. Hurray for the freshness enabled by high-volume sales, for the quality control of a chain, for delicious salt by the cupful.

The predictable solution: Go to Chipotle once a month. Ask which ingredient they source locally, and order an extra scoop/squirt/dollop of it. Then enjoy--but don't forget to feel bad about yourself.